Article by Sumeet Chordia, G.G.

How should one go about buying a sapphire? Pursuing the “perfect” natural sapphire engagement ring requires a different “set of eyes” or perspective than a diamond engagement ring. While this may seem obvious, many shoppers equate diamond standards to sapphire standards. After all, a gem is a gem and should be evaluated equally. However, while diamonds are predominately carbon, formed at extreme depths, and can conveniently group into the 4C (color, clarity, cut, and carat weight) rubric, natural sapphires are primarily Aluminum Oxide formed at shallower depths and heterogeneous. Therefore, slight variations in its attributes can affect its appearance and, consequently, its value. The nature of sapphires makes it challenging for laboratories to evaluate and group certain parameters such as hue, clarity, or cut grade.

Step 1. Define your ideal sapphire.

Unlike searching for fixed parameters in a diamond, begin your sapphire search with a sentence or a list of important features to you and your fiancé. This is your opportunity to focus on what uniquely matters to you two and not the seller, a laboratory, or the market. Here is an example:

She would love to wear a beautiful and brilliant three-carat cushion-shaped blue sapphire that reflects the blue ocean we saw during our memorable trip. I know she loves this shape because she has shown me several images, and I think a three-carat would be the right size for her finger.

The important thing to note here is that the perfect sapphire is the one your fiancé will always adore and wear. Feel free to elaborate and add more elements or features to your definition of the perfect sapphire. These could include geographic origin, cutting style, or even phenomena like asterism or color-change.

Step 2. Allocate a separate budget for the sapphire.

Establish a dedicated budget for the sapphire and reserve a separate amount for the setting where you may accrue charges for designing, accent stones, metal, labor, shipping and handling, certifications, and other add-on services. By starting with the center stone, you are more likely to achieve your goal within or around your budget.

If you do not know where to start, take your total budget and allocate 60% to 80% to the center stone. If you are exploring an intricate ring design, allocate close to 60% to the center stone. A more basic or classic design will allow you to spend more on the center stone. There is no correct amount or a fixed percentage, but this is a reasonable range to help you begin your initial search and explore the market.

Step 3. Decide whether you want a natural, unheated sapphire or a natural, heated sapphire.

Sapphires that are natural (earth-mined) and exhibit no evidence of enhancement are considered “unheated” or  “no-heat”. In contrast, sapphires that exhibit heat enhancement are considered “heated” or “heat-treated”. Unheated sapphires and heated sapphires each have pros and cons. Notably, unheated sapphires are rare and more valuable; heat-treated sapphires are relatively less expensive and available in larger sizes.

 

Step 4. Begin your preliminary search.

As you conduct your preliminary search, constantly refer to your definition in Step 1. Check whether you need to tweak your definition, search, or your budget. Furthermore, assess the sapphire in its most basic form – look at it from a distance and ask whether you like the color, the shape, the size, and the light reflection. Do not fall into further specifications or a 10x zoom at this stage. As you find sapphires, build your collection of suitable candidates; save their images, videos, or hyperlinks.

Step 5. Detail Examination and Grouping

Go through your sapphires collection and examine them closely—this is a good time to observe the sapphire under a 10x gem loupe. If 360-degree videos are available, look at the stone from various angles. Otherwise, ask the jeweler to send you a candid video that captures the stone from all sides.

Make sure to remove stones that host bothersome reflective inclusions. Unlike diamonds, sapphires exhibit more inclusions—they are diverse and present throughout the crystal. Determine whether any inclusion is reflective (visible without a loupe) and whether it affects the stone’s durability.

As you work through the stones, assign them into three groups: Ideal, Excellent, and Very Good.

Step 6. Focus on sapphires in the ‘Ideal’ and ‘Excellent’ categories.

Remove the sapphires in the ‘Very Good’ category and focus on the other two categories. Next, go into the specific details about measurements, geographic origin, price, and other attributes that you value.

Step 7. Do your diligence!

Ensure your stone has paperwork from a reputable third-party laboratory that matches the specifications. It is advisable to work with companies that have excellent after-sales service. Furthermore, read Return & Exchange policies thoroughly. Each company is different, and it’s best to understand their terms prior to purchase.

Step 8. Negotiate

With gemstones and jewelry, there is usually room to negotiate. Work with the sales representative and negotiate.

Step 9. Work with a reputable jeweler to make your desired ring or jewelry.

After procuring the most perfect stone, work with a reputable jeweler to make your beautiful ring. Try to include elements that are meaningful to you and your fiancé. Remember that your ring should tell your story; only you can make that happen.

Step 10. Celebrate!

Congratulations, you have created the most beautiful natural sapphire engagement ring! A final check: upon receiving the ring, check the stone, ring, paperwork, and other arrangements you made. Immediately reach out to the company to resolve any discrepancy—do not delay.

If you have any questions or feedback, please reach out to us. We hope this guide helps you procure the most beautiful sapphire engagement ring; click here to view our loose sapphires collection.

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Updated: July 29, 2022
Originally Published: July 16, 2021