JAR
JAR, also known as Joel Arthur Rosenthal, is renowned not only for his breathtaking jewelry but also for his aversion to publicity and elusive nature. He was born in 1943 in the Bronx and grew up as the only child of a postal worker father and biology teacher mother who instilled in him the importance of pursuing his passions and finding happiness.
After studying linguistics and graduating with a degree in Art History and Philosophy from Yale in 1966, JAR moved to Paris where he initially worked as a screenwriter. He later opened a small needlepoint shop where his unique color experiments with yarns caught the attention of famous designers such as Valentino and Hermès. His fascination with the history and mysteries of color led him to the world of fine gemstones and jewelry, and he eventually started working for Bulgari in New York. However, JAR's passion for jewelry and Paris drew him back to the city, where he and his partner, Pierre Jeannet, established their eponymous atelier just off the Place Vendôme in 1977. Today, JAR still works from the same discreet black door with a distinctive and decorative doorknob, where passersby would never guess the hidden treasures inside.
JAR's jewelry is known for its exquisite craftsmanship, with each piece taking months or even years to create. He is famous for his unparalleled use of tiny, faceted gems that are pavé set in the most delicate and intricate of settings, which create a painterly effect, as well as his unique metal alloys that provide a dark background against which the gems can shine. His designs are characterized by their organic shapes, unconventional color combinations, and bold use of materials. JAR is a true master of his craft. He is highly selective, creating only a limited number of pieces each year, with every one being a unique work of art. Some of these pieces are bespoke creations for his exclusive clientele, while others may have been inspired by a sudden burst of inspiration or may have been the result of decades of contemplation.
Some of JAR's most famous works include the bejeweled butterflies he created for the collection of the late American philanthropist, Barbara Hutton, as well as a stunning 6-carat pink diamond that he purchased at auction and kept for over 20 years before finally creating a setting that did it justice. His work has been exhibited in some of the world's most prestigious museums, including The Gilbert Collection in London and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and is coveted by collectors and connoisseurs around the world.
JAR's workshops are based in Paris, the south of France, and Geneva, producing only few pieces each year. Each piece is crafted with utmost care, taking anywhere from a few weeks to two and a half years to complete. With a devotion to quality and an unwavering commitment to excellence, this jeweler is truly one of a kind.
In 2002, The Gilbert Collection in Somerset House, London, held a stunning exhibition featuring 400 of the Jar's pieces. The exhibition was unique in that the jewels were displayed in near darkness, with visitors using torches to view each piece individually. The display was truly breathtaking and showcased the jeweler's masterful use of light and color.
Over a decade later, in 2013, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York hosted a retrospective of the JAR's works, with 145 clients loaning hundreds of jewels for the exhibit. It was a testament to the jeweler's impact on the industry and his enduring popularity among collectors and enthusiasts alike.
JAR is highly selective about who he sells to, and all new clients are introduced to him by existing ones. He eschews advertising and rarely gives interviews, preferring to maintain a private and exclusive air around himself and his creations. This has only added to the public's fascination with the man and his jewelry.
Despite his elusive nature, the jeweler's pieces whenever they come in auctions fethch consistently much higher prices far in excess of their estimates . JAR remains one of the most highly regarded and sought-after contemporary jewelers, with a legacy that will continue to captivate and inspire for generations to come.