MAUBOUSSIN
Mauboussin is a French luxury jewelry house with a rich history spanning over a century. Founded in 1827 by M. Rocher and located on Rue Greneta in Paris, it was later purchased by Jean Baptiste Noury in 1869, who changed its name to Noury & Co. It was Jean Baptiste Noury's nephew, Georges Mauboussin, who joined the firm in 1890 and eventually took over the business in 1922, renaming it Mauboussin.
During the 1920s and 30s, Mauboussin became renowned for their innovative designs, which reflected the cultural and artistic influences of the time. They produced some of the most exquisite and iconic Art Deco pieces, such as colorful Tutti Frutti brooches and geometric monochrome sautoirs, which were widely acclaimed for their beauty and originality.
The Maison's expertise was recognized in 1925 at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs, where they were awarded a Gold Medal. They also participated in 18 such fairs in seven years, showcasing their pieces from Milan to Buenos Aires, which proved to be an effective way to expand the business.
In 1928, Mauboussin organized the first of three exhibitions held in their Paris showroom dedicated to the beauty of gemstones. The exhibitions aimed to draw attention to the range and quality of gems that the company was able to source for clients and that were used in their jewelry. The first one focused on emeralds, with the centerpiece being a stunning 24ct emerald given by Napoleon to Josephine in 1800 and re-mounted for the occasion in an oriental-inspired design. Rubies and diamonds followed in 1930 and 31, respectively, both of which were widely attended, attracting the attention of the Prince of Wales and the Maharajas of Kapurthala and Indore.
In the 1930s, Mauboussin expanded their business by opening branches in New York, Buenos Aires, and London. They collaborated with the American firm Trabert & Hoeffer, creating some of the most striking and original jewels in American history. This collaboration led to the creation of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, which was based on Park Avenue and would trade between 1936 and 1953.
In 1946, the Maison moved to the Place Vendôme and for the first time allowed the ground floor windows to open onto the street, showcasing changing displays of jewels to passers-by. A separate boutique was opened in 1955, selling jewelry produced on a large scale at more affordable prices, in an effort to democratize fine jewelry.
Mauboussin has been commissioned by many famous clients over the years, including Queen Nazli of Egypt and the Maharaja of Indore. They created a series of remarkable jewels for Queen Nazli, including a swirl necklace in diamonds and cabochon rubies with matching earrings. In 1931, the Maharaja of Indore commissioned Mauboussin to set his two exceptional diamonds, the Indore Pears, in a necklace, and two years later, made the firm his jeweler by appointment. Over the coming years, they would gradually re-mount large quantities of the Maharaja's collection of jewelry and gemstones.
Today, Mauboussin remains an independently owned company, with stores in Paris, Japan, Singapore, and New York, known for its unique designs and quality craftsmanship.
Mauboussin has created many notable and highly regarded pieces throughout its history. Some of the most famous include:
Tutti Frutti Jewelry: This colorful and playful style of jewelry was made popular by Cartier in the 1920s, but Mauboussin also created some exceptional examples. Their Tutti Frutti brooches, necklaces, and bracelets feature a mix of gemstones including diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires.
Zip Necklace: This iconic necklace was created by Mauboussin in the 1950s and is considered a masterpiece of Art Deco design. The necklace features a zipper-like chain that can be worn as a long necklace or a shorter choker, with a diamond and sapphire tassel that can be detached and worn as a brooch.
Indian-inspired Jewelry: Mauboussin was known for its Indian-inspired jewelry, which featured elaborate designs and vibrant gemstones. One of the most famous examples is the necklace created for the Maharaja of Indore, which features the two largest diamonds in the world, the Indore Pears.
Frivole Collection: The Frivole collection is a recent addition to Mauboussin's line of jewelry, but it has quickly become one of their most popular. The collection features delicate and whimsical pieces inspired by flowers, with diamond petals and gold stems.
Les Merveilles Collection: This collection features unique and unusual gemstones, such as rutilated quartz, watermelon tourmaline, and Paraiba tourmaline, set in elegant and modern designs.
These are just a few examples of Mauboussin's famous works, but the brand has a long history of creating exceptional jewelry that is both beautiful and innovative.