Péry et Fils

It all started when…

Nestled within the illustrious tapestry of Parisian high jewelry, Péry et Fils emerges as an unsung hero, a workshop whose mastery and artistry have significantly contributed to the global reputation of Parisian jewelry since the 19th century. While the grand names of French jewelry, such as Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Chaumet, have rightfully earned widespread recognition, it is workshops like Péry et Fils that have quietly but profoundly shaped the world of jewelry creation and manufacturing.

The Birth of Excellence

Péry et Fils, founded in 1875, carries with it a legacy of dedication to excellence that has transcended generations. Its story begins with the visionary artisan, Lucien Péry, who initially embarked on a journey as a glove-maker. However, Lucien's passion for jewelry soon led him to craft small but intricate pieces, notably delicate gold chains, which found favor among retailers across France.

A Blossoming Partnership with Van Cleef & Arpels

The true turning point for Péry et Fils came in the 1920s when it solidified its location at 7 Boulevard Saint-Denis in Paris. This era marked the beginning of a fruitful collaboration with the iconic house of Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA). The deep friendship between the Péry family and VCA was forged between 1930 and 1940, and it only strengthened after the upheaval of World War II.

During the war, Albert Péry, who had assumed the helm of the workshop, was taken prisoner while his young son, Bernard, was merely 12 years old. Consequently, Péry et Fils was forced to close its doors for five long years. However, the courage and foresight of Albert's wife, Madeleine, and great-grandmother, Sidonie, illuminated a remarkable story of determination. They buried all the gold stock of Péry et Fils, along with the orders of esteemed clients, including VCA, beneath an apple tree in a suburban Paris garden. Upon liberation, the cache of gold, gemstones, and pieces designated for VCA was recovered. This profound gesture deeply touched the Arpels brothers—Claude, Jacques, and Pierre, leading to an extraordinary bond of friendship and trust between VCA and Péry et Fils.

Designing Dreams into Reality

One may wonder whether all the jewelry created by Péry et Fils was designed by their artisans—the answer is yes. Until 2000, Péry et Fils had a team of talented designers. Iconic pieces like the whimsical "disheveled little lion" were products of their creativity. The journey from the initial draft to the final masterpiece often involved numerous iterations, sometimes up to fifteen drawings. The exacting standards of VCA demanded nothing less than perfection, and the enduring popularity of these creations validated the relentless pursuit of excellence.

One of Péry et Fils' most celebrated creations is the legendary "zip" necklace. Its inception in 1951 was a result of the collaborative genius of the Péry workshop and VCA. This iconic piece was born out of the zipper craze of the late 1930s and 1940s. The inspiration for the necklace was a direct response to the prevalence of zippers in fashion and attire. Interestingly, it was originally conceived by Louis Grin, a designer at Péry et Fils, and presented to Albert Péry. However, due to the war's disruptions, the first "zip" necklace was only completed and delivered in 1951. This masterpiece became an instant sensation, with 48 more crafted in the following six years. Its design in yellow gold adorned with scattered diamonds, featuring two clasps that could transform it into a bracelet, captured the essence of innovative luxury.

A Workshop of Versatility

Péry et Fils was not limited to crafting only jewelry. They also ventured into creating other objects of beauty and utility. Notable examples include a magnificent clock for Mauboussin, swords for the academicians of Maréchal Juin, and even a range of small office objects like paperweights. While these ventures were not their primary focus, they showcased the workshop's versatility and skill.

Collaborations Beyond VCA

While Pery et Fils is often associated with Van Cleef & Arpels, they also collaborated with a multitude of other renowned houses on Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix. Their clientele included Boucheron, Chaumet, Mauboussin, Fred, Bulgari, Tiffany, Harry Winston, Lacloche, Sterlé, Graff, and Cartier, among others. Despite their widespread collaborations, Pery et Fils' dedication to quality and craftsmanship remained unwavering.

A Shift in the Luxury Industry

Brigitte Péry-Eveno, the last director and owner of Péry et Fils, reflects on the transformation of the jewelry industry over the years. She notes that while jewelry continues to evoke passion and dreams, the industry has evolved significantly. The crises of 1991 and 2008 left an indelible mark on the landscape. Family-owned businesses like Péry et Fils gave way to large corporate groups.

Brigitte Péry-Eveno also laments the changing dynamics of manufacturer-retailer relationships. In her time, direct and personal exchanges with Paolo Bulgari, Jacques Arpels, and other luminaries were the norm. Today, the industry operates with more bureaucracy, and the personal touch that characterized these interactions has diminished. Nevertheless, she acknowledges that the industry must adapt to the times.

A Proud Legacy Continues

In 2012, Brigitte Péry-Eveno made the momentous decision to entrust Péry et Fils to Van Cleef & Arpels. This transition marked the continuation of a remarkable legacy, where the two names, "Péry" and "Van Cleef & Arpels," are inseparable. Péry et Fils lives on within the Van Cleef & Arpels family, preserving its dedication to quality, innovation, and the pursuit of dreams.

Today, the Péry family’s legacy endures, as their passion for the craft continues to inspire. Their contribution to the world of high jewelry extends beyond the exquisite pieces; it encompasses the preservation of tradition, the nurturing of talent, and the storytelling that keeps the magic alive.

Péry et Fils is not merely a workshop; it is a custodian of artistry, a curator of history, and a testament to the enduring allure of beauty and craftsmanship. It is a reminder that behind the grand names of the jewelry world lie unsung heroes who have shaped the industry's very essence. Péry et Fils may not be as widely recognized yet, but its impact on the world of high jewelry is immeasurable and will continue to rise with generations.