Article by Sumeet Chordia, G.G.

During the most coveted periods of jewelry, such as the Victorian, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, and Art Deco, the location of gemstones and treatments was conveyed by traders through word of mouth. The trader’s word was gold and trust was paramount. Although rudimentary and lack of scientific validation this is how the global trade of gemstones operated.

With time, things changed - new sources and treatments emerged and traders were no longer able to offer their word of gold. Most of the traders ignored the issue and continued to operate normally but this was a brewing problem that would one day disrupt the market and it did. Gemstones from new sources and with treatment began to flood the supply chain and disrupt the global industry. Traders did not have the skill to bifurcate or claim that their stone was not enhanced in any way and commanded the price they were asking.

In the 1950s, the stepping stones and foundation of determining the geographic origins of gemstones were established by Dr. Eduard (Edward) Josef Gübelin. A mineralogist and renowned scientific researcher Dr. Gübelin invented breakthrough technology and methods to establish the science of gemstone origin and treatments - both of which are important factors in determining the value of a gemstone.

Dr. Gübelin's persistence and desire to study the intricate inner world a gemstone opened a revolutionary field of study in gemology. He was not only fascinated by the beauty of inclusions inside a gem, but believed that by studying the "crystals, particles, bubbles, and other shapes and colors visible inside gemstones" (Gubelin, 2020) gemologists can reveal a gemstone's geographic origin and treatment. After all, the environment inside a gemstone is a snapshot of millions of years into our planet's history and if it was altered by man in any way there must be some evidence.

To expand his study and establish a scientific method of determining gemstone origin and treatment Dr. Gübelin traveled across the world and collected specimens. His journey allowed him to build an extensive database of various inclusions in gemstones that would assist in providing clues about geographic regions and treatments that were already in the market and in pieces of jewelry.

His foundational methods are strongly relevant today whether it’s determining a significant portion of the value in a vintage jewel or when miners discover a new source. Built upon Dr. Gübelin’s breakthrough discovery other renowned laboratories in the United States and Switzerland, such as the American Gemological Laboratory (AGL), SSEF, and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) constantly conduct their own exploratory field and scientific research to grow their database and improve their methods for the determination of gemstone origin and enhancement.

These scientific methods and instruments are at the heart of the science for experienced gemologists to make an informed opinion and provide tremendous confidence and value to the end customer.

#